Mada Wines
It’s been a while since we’ve jumped up on our soap-box and used it to shout out a Canberran producer; it’s fair to say we probably wouldn’t unless given a bloody good reason to. (Nothing against the seat of our illustrious government, but with so much talent on our own doorstep, it takes something pretty specky to redirect both gaze and gullet).
Mada Wines is that good reason. The loin fruit of one Hamish Young, formerly of Eden Road. A strong ethos underpinning the whole operation; starting with good fruit grown by good people. Viticulturists with a deep respect for the sites they tend, cultivating sustainably, for quality fruit year in and out. The lovely lumps of NSW’s southern ranges, expressed faithfully, with each little parcel blended so as to let its voice be heard, even if only a whisper.
Beyond that aforementioned generosity, it’s hard to point to a single feature that connects the range – they’re staunchly idiosyncratic, expressing terroir, but bypassing that which has been said before. Powerfully tropicana Pinot Gris, confectionery perfumed blanc de blanc, an opulent rouge blend with a cacophony of dried herb, we could go on.
The whole range represents a playpen of possibilities, but ever exploratory, Young forges onward in all directions – the Sui Generis range, Latin for ‘of its own kind’, are aptly titled.
In its most recent iteration, version VIII, digital label artworks generated in response to tasting note prompts for these highly experimental wines; enlisting AI and multi-sensory digital designer Jess Herrington to render accompanying artworks (including multimodal versions present on the webby). Layers upon layers of acid-trip berry brightness, a journey into the soul of the grape via the vehicle of video. We didn’t know we wanted it.
If that all sounds a bit frilly, don’t be perturbed; the art may be a frenetic frenzy, but the wines are focused (if fun).
We love them now, and greedy little guts that we are, we’re excited for the next ones.
