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Feature Region - Valtellina

Feature Region - Valtellina

At Sometimes Always we tend to get alittlebitexcited when we discover liquid gold from lesser-known regions. As a general philosophy, life can lean towards vanilla if we stick to the Always and never explore the Sometimes. 

As our shelves bear the weight of more and more delicious wines from this particular corner of Italy, the time is ripe to bring you a little background on the region of Valtellina, Lombardy, in the hope that our sippable discoveries will become your next moment of revelation.

IT'S AN ALPINE THING

Valtellina is a steep valley carved from mountainous ancient granite that rise strikingly over River Adda. You’ll find it on the border of Italy and Switzerland some 220km from Piedmont, where Barolo has made Nebbiolo famous.

We’re in Nebbiolo territory, but not as you know it. A region planted almost exclusively to the variety, Valtellina vines endure dramatic and unique conditions to shape what’s affably known today as Alpine Nebbiolo.

Locals actually call the infamous grape Chiavennasca - and rightly so to give this particular clone a little extra credit. Put simply, the metamorphosis of Nebbiolo in Valtellina comes down to nature and nurture in equal parts.

THE VALTELLINA BUBBLE

As an ancient variety, the devil’s advocate (and DNA findings) may argue that it’s still unclear whether Nebbiolo originates from Piedmont or Valtellina. There is however documentation of Nebbiolo vines traveling to Valtellina from Piedmont half a century ago. These plantings have existed in mountainous isolation ever since.

It’s cooler here. Sunny days and sunlight reflected within the protected valley create ideal conditions for slow grape maturation, trapping heat within the stone to warm vines through cool nights. But with vineyards ranging from 220m to an epic 760m above sea level, the altitude also lends to frost burn and low, precious yields.
These are high maintenance vineyards. Chilly days on the mountain are the daily for its custodians, the treacherous slopes of its narrow terraced rows a necessary hazard. Terrace-protecting retaining walls named muretti are common practice to keep the treacherous slopes and precious vines safely in place.

During vintage, aerial pulley systems are employed by the bigger producers, but for the most part, Valtellina is still a small region with few large producers. This means that during harvest, trudging up and down the slopes carrying heavy baskets of grapes remains the norm for its farmers. We’re certainly grateful for their labour.
These are fine-boned, pretty and aromatic wines of poise defined by acidity, minerality and vibrant red fruit.

FINESSE OVER FOG

Sporting thinner skins than its southwesterly relatives, Valtellina tends lighter and fresher, encouraging a mid-weight style. Less a ‘wolf in sheep’s clothing’ than gutsy Barolos, its pale depths conceal complexity rather than body.

These are fine-boned, pretty and aromatic wines of poise defined by acidity, minerality and vibrant red fruit. Heady with red rose and violet, look out for hints of cool, moss-covered earth and an intriguing salinity.

The entire region is DOC Valtellina Rosso at a minimum, including two areas of Valtellina Superiore DOCG, the most cellar-worthy Chiavennasca. These require a minimum 12 months on oak prior to bottling,
Famous names including Ar.Pe.Pe, Barbacan, Rainoldi, with lesser-known producers including the organic Pizzo Coco and Dirupi are crafting thrilling youthful iterations.

While the neighboring Swiss used to be its largest importer, the vast majority of wines from this region are still consumed by the lucky locals.

At least for the moment lesser known than Langhe Nebbiolo, Barolo and the like, Rosso di Valtellina hits a real sweet spot. From this singular region turning granite into gold, we’ll take every drop we can get.

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