For all its talk of nuance, wine does love a category. Red. White. Rosé. Nice and neat. But some of the most interesting bottles refuse to pick a side. White grapes treated like reds, red grapes barely given time on their skins, and a whole spectrum of pink, peach, amber, copper and everything in between. They might be called rosato, orange, amber or skinsy, but they all live in that delicious in between—neither red nor white, and all the more interesting for it.