For decades, McLaren Vale built its reputation on big, powerful reds. Then along came Brash Higgins. Instead of doubling down, Brad Hickey looked to the sun-drenched vineyards of southern Italy for inspiration. Out went the norm, in came Nero d'Avola, Zibibbo and clay amphora. The wines that followed have become some of the region's most distinctive. Fragrant, savoury and packed with energy. If your idea of McLaren Vale begins and ends with Shiraz, consider this a nudge.

Before he made wine, Brad Hickey spent years working the floor of some of New York's best restaurants. Which might explain why every Brash Higgins wine seems to have one thing in common: they're ridiculously good at the table. Pour a glass, put something tasty and you'll quickly understand what all the fuss is about.