Smallfry
The fries are small, the over-delivering-on-price-point is huge. Viticulturists who got bit bad by that winemaking bug, Suzi Hilder and Wayne Ahrens of Smallfry make minimally adjusted wines of great creativity. High-quality, well-nurtured fruit is a foundation that supports a little experimentation on the bench.
The result is a diverse selection of consistently balanced, utterly drinkable, textured whites and uber food-friendly reds. Euro-influenced, interesting wines (interesting here a synonym for delicious, NOT dubious).
Viticulturists who got bit bad by that winemaking bug.
There’s story, community and continuity attached to the Smallfry brand and ethos. Suzi and Wayne tend two main sites, one in the storied country that is the Eden Valley, planted in 1994. Their Vine Vale block, on the Barossa Valley floor has some historic runs on the board, tended by stalwart Ken Schlieb who put in over 52 vintages before hanging up his snips. The vineyard was planted in the style of many a Germanic Barossan settler; garden style, fruit trees shoulder-to-shoulder with vines.
Now in the custody of Smallfry, these historic plantings are revitalised by winemaking that honours the fruit itself. Considering more than just the bottom line, there’s a lovely authenticity to Suzi and Wayne’s approach. It’s clear that they’re considering more than the wines they’re making today, but also how the fruit being grown serves developing tastes today and the climate pressures of tomorrow.
They do an orange wine as well as anyone, with great freshness, texture and fruit character balanced by acid. Crunchy reds, styled a little fresher and younger– though the Shliebs Garden GSM nods strongly to the darker fruit character many associate with Barossan boldness.
Doing their bit to keep SA at the vanguard of fun, focused winemaking; Smallfry we salute you, glasses held high.
Doing their bit to keep SA at the vanguard of fun, focused winemaking; Smallfry we salute you, glasses held high.