Spotlight On ➺ Muscadet
The Whisper That Shouts
Musca-dette or Musca-day? We asked a Frenchie, and their verdict was the latter. We don’t judge either way though— however you want to wrap your lips around it, we highly recommend that you do. Made in the western part of the oft-exalted Loire Valley, Muscadet is for those who like their whites dry, light and lean.
There’s a time and a place for sweet and fruity. We’ll let you know when it’s coming up, but this ain’t it. Turn to Muscadet when you’re after the zing of citrus, lively minerals, spicy acid and a serious affinity for food.
More In The Glass
Where some wines make for a great food pairing because their distinctive flavour profiles go toe-to-toe with powerful dishes, Muscadet is the whisper that shouts. Subtle, restrained. Indeed, there was a time that Muscadet fell out of vogue somewhat for its perceived lack of dominating flavour characteristics. But if nineties teen cinema tropes have taught us anything, it’s that every wallflower will have her day in the sun. And since the 20th century, winemakers in all three key AOC’s where Muscadet originates (more on this shortly) have experimented more freely with oak influence and lees stirring, giving rise to diverse, powerful expressions of the Melon de Bourgogne grape variety for those seeking it. (To clarify: Muscadet = the appellation, Melon de Bourgogne = the grape grown there and used to make the stuff). We’re firm friends with oak and lovers of lees, but there’s something to be said for the simplicity that the style was historically associated with; sometimes you just want fresh, crisp, easy drinking.
That said, not all Muscadet is created equal. Muscadet, the broad appellation, covers an area of about 32,000 acres near the French city of Nantes, enjoying a little more oceanic influence than other parts of the Loire Valley, on account of its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a little cooler, a little wetter. Indeed, the reason the Melon de Bourgogne grape variety was planted so widely throughout the region goes back to the 18th century, when it was introduced for its resilience after the region’s established vine stocks suffered unprecedented winter freezes. From noughties pop anthems, to vigorous vines, who doesn’t love a survivor?
As an umbrella definition, Muscadet refers to the full or generic appellation, though this houses three distinct sub-appellations. Two of these date back to 1936; Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine and Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire. The third was established in 1994, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, named for the Grandlieu lake it skirts. If generic ‘Muscadet’ is good stuff, the ones produced in the three sub-appellations have the special sauce.
That said, not all Muscadet is created equal. Muscadet, the broad appellation, covers an area of about 32,000 acres near the French city of Nantes, enjoying a little more oceanic influence than other parts of the Loire Valley, on account of its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a little cooler, a little wetter. Indeed, the reason the Melon de Bourgogne grape variety was planted so widely throughout the region goes back to the 18th century, when it was introduced for its resilience after the region’s established vine stocks suffered unprecedented winter freezes. From noughties pop anthems, to vigorous vines, who doesn’t love a survivor?
As an umbrella definition, Muscadet refers to the full or generic appellation, though this houses three distinct sub-appellations. Two of these date back to 1936; Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine and Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire. The third was established in 1994, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, named for the Grandlieu lake it skirts. If generic ‘Muscadet’ is good stuff, the ones produced in the three sub-appellations have the special sauce.
Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine is the most prolific region for Muscadet by a wide margin, with almost half of the Muscadet made there aged sur lie.
French vocab lesson now in session; sur lie? The term describes wines aged on lees (the dead yeast cells that remain post-fermentation). Sur lie aging sees the yeast cells slowly breaking down throughout the aging process, releasing sugars and proteins into the wine, which offer an array of aromas and flavours. This is where sur lie aging can offer Muscadet a suite of cool perks, adding complexity, savoury flavours, and a little more texture on the palate. There’s a set of restrictions surrounding appellation-approved ‘sur lie’ naming; the term can only be used in the three sub-appellations, the wine must sit on the lees through the whole winter, the bottling process shouldn’t include any fining or filtration.
But for the casual drinker, what do you need to know to enjoy your Muscadet?
For the most part, Muscadet lends itself to being drunk young; anything more than three-ten years aging won’t always be rewarded (notable exceptions, of course, blah blah). It begs for drinking alongside seafood. No wine should have to beg; give in readily, everyone wins.
If it’s your first time, mazel tov. We recommend starting with Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine for a quintessential iteration of the style, and take your palate on a journey through the other sub-appellations thereafter. And of course, there are a few on our shelves that we highly recommend.
French vocab lesson now in session; sur lie? The term describes wines aged on lees (the dead yeast cells that remain post-fermentation). Sur lie aging sees the yeast cells slowly breaking down throughout the aging process, releasing sugars and proteins into the wine, which offer an array of aromas and flavours. This is where sur lie aging can offer Muscadet a suite of cool perks, adding complexity, savoury flavours, and a little more texture on the palate. There’s a set of restrictions surrounding appellation-approved ‘sur lie’ naming; the term can only be used in the three sub-appellations, the wine must sit on the lees through the whole winter, the bottling process shouldn’t include any fining or filtration.
But for the casual drinker, what do you need to know to enjoy your Muscadet?
For the most part, Muscadet lends itself to being drunk young; anything more than three-ten years aging won’t always be rewarded (notable exceptions, of course, blah blah). It begs for drinking alongside seafood. No wine should have to beg; give in readily, everyone wins.
If it’s your first time, mazel tov. We recommend starting with Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine for a quintessential iteration of the style, and take your palate on a journey through the other sub-appellations thereafter. And of course, there are a few on our shelves that we highly recommend.
We’re firm friends with oak and lovers of lees, but there’s something to be said for the simplicity that the style was historically associated with; sometimes you just want fresh, crisp, easy drinking.