The whites that François turns out have plenty of quirk to keep things interesting, with depth and persistence not always present in ‘truest’ expressions of Sancerre. The famed ‘terres blanches’, peppered with stony deposits, imparts oodles of unique character to the vineyards even before the Cotat clan put their hands to the fruit. Though technically not certified organic, pesticides are omitted, fertilisers are organic, yeasts are indigenous and racking is in accordance with phases of the moon. Biodynamic-light, organic adjacent, if you will.

As well as the Sauvignon Blanc that prevails in Chavignol, Cotat does some flirty things with Pinot Noir, his rosé definitely sitting high up in the Pantheon of Frenchies that we’ve sampled; all blood peaches and autumnal notes. Across his small selection, a mastery of balance is front and centre.

Fully ripened fruit is employed, not in pursuit of residual sweetness, but chasing detail and character to counter the region’s harsher, minerally acid profile. Razor precision in the winery, and a willingness to break with the constraints of appellation, even where that means forgoing the name on the label. Cotat is trading on his own name at this point anyway.

We love a ready to drink white as much as the next person, but if you were looking for something special to lay away, these can be that. Drunk young, they brim with citrus, stonefruit and blossom, but cellared a while (some of these have the longevity to go half a century, though you needn’t be that committed) a rich, caramelised flavour will only continue to develop. Expect mouth-filling, moussey texture and depth for days.