Nervi-Conterno
When Roberto Conterno—yes, of Barolo royalty—took the reins at Gattinara's oldest winery, the wine world sat up in anticipation. Eight years on, Nervi-Conterno is producing some of the most compelling Nebbiolo in northern Italy. We've managed to secure a tiny allocation: a delicate rosato and three single-cru Nebbiolos from Gattinara's alpine slopes. Very little to go around. All eyes on Alto Piemonte, blink and it's gone.
Founded in 1906, Nervi is Gattinara's oldest working cantina. Its vineyards include the celebrated Molsino and Valferana crus, where volcanic soils, cool alpine air and steep slopes produce Nebbiolo—known locally as Spanna—of remarkable perfume, precision and longevity. This is mountain Nebbiolo at its finest: lifted, savoury and unmistakably alpine.