Negrette, served three ways. Silky and perfumed, this stealthy variety from the cool, wet west of France has a habit of winning people over. Just north of Toulouse, Diane and Philippe Cauvin are bringing it back into the light. Old Fronton vines—some pushing 70 years—worked biodynamically, by hand, with more time spent in the vineyard than the cellar. Diane took over the family estate, flipping it to biodynamics in 2006 and backing this rare local variety—on the brink of extinction, no less—when few others would. France’s rarest vines at your fingertips.