If you seek wild-eyed wines that’ll knock your socks off with juicy, glossy enthusiasm, you’re going to get on just fine with these rippers from Cobaw Ridge. Tucked high in the Macedon Ranges, working a single site since the mid-’80s, Alan and Nelly Cooper shouldn’t be boxed in as just another cool-climate operation. Bio-dynamically farmed, entirely estate grown—one of the region’s greats, and we reckon it goes pretty darn good.

Cobaw Ridge sits in a natural amphitheatre of granite and wind, with vines—some pushing 40, most more than 25 years old—hand-picked, hand-pruned, and hand-tended. Worked in small batches, matured gently in oak, and bottled without fining or filtration—nothing added, nothing taken away. A fine thread of minerality and high-altitude tension runs through the range, making these wines as refreshing as they are complex.