In the lesser-known Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire Valley, Nicolas Grosbois and Philippe Mesnier purchased 12 hectares of vines where they could see potential. Now they’re certified organic. Kudos. Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Grolleau, natural ferments in concrete, time in stainless steel. Textbook juicy red, with a zing of acid. Screaming “drink now”.